Chapter 3 The road to Goofy Foot Island.

So now I needed to get that surfboard I found fixed, I have a older sister and lucky for me a few of the guys in the neighborhood would hang around and one of them offered to fix up my new found board (one of the benefits of have a sister) and it gave them the time to hang out, I couldn’t believe I was going to have my first surfboard but they’re was just one problem, I was afraid of going underwater, I knew how to swim but didn’t like going below it, my dad threw me into a pool once when I was really little and seemed like forever till I finally came to the surface, heck I didn’t even know how to swim yet so you can understand the fear I had. So when I turned 8 years old I was baptized into the Mormon church and that entails being submerged all the way under water and I wasn’t having any part of that, so I thought. My family was all there, grandparents, aunt,uncles and cousins all waiting for me, so someone grabbed my hand and started to lead me to the water and I just went wild, screaming and kicking, hanging on to anything I could, all my family is hearing this commotion coming from the room we were in, they said I sounded like the devil himself kicking and screaming, I fought hard but they were not going to let me go, so they led me down the steps to the water and as soon as my toes hit the water i felt this calmness go through my whole body, I really couldn’t believe it, the fear was gone just like that and from that day forward you couldn’t keep me out of the water, I felt the spirit of God and the holy spirit that day and God already knew that I was going to be a surfer for life and I thank him everyday. Mahalo. More to come.🌴🌴

Scenics; _FCS; _Monster; _Oakley; _Billabong;

Published by Pedro

Been surfing for over 45 years in the cold Pacific Ocean, I'll tell you about the sharks later. Stay tuned..

Join the Conversation

1 Comment

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *